Amps & subwoofers explained / Recommended line output converters
Line output converters I recommend
Keeping your factory radio and adding a sub or an amp? A line output converter (LOC) taps the speaker wires behind the radio and turns that signal into the RCA signal an amp needs. These are the three I install and would put in my own car. I'm not paid by any of these brands.
Prices are what these sell for today and move with sales.
Three things to know before you buy
1. You might not need one. An aftermarket radio already has RCA outputs, so if you're getting a new radio too, skip the converter. A lot of amps also have speaker-level (high-level) inputs built in, which does the same job for a basic sub setup. A separate converter is for when your amp only has RCA inputs, or you want the bass to stay even at high volume.
2. Factory radios turn the bass down as you turn the volume up. Most factory systems roll the bass off at higher volume to protect the little stock speakers. With a basic converter your sub fades out right when you want it most, and you end up riding the bass knob. The AudioControl units fix that with a circuit called AccuBASS. If you listen loud, that's the money part.
3. Premium factory systems (Bose, JBL, Harman Kardon, Alpine) are a different job. The signal comes out of a factory amp, already processed. A good converter still works on most of them, but which wires to tap changes car to car. Text me your year, make and model before you order and I'll tell you which one your car needs.
The three I recommend
Budget pick
Scosche LOC2SL
About $20–25 · 2 channel
The cheap one that works. Two channels in, one pair of RCAs out, and it comes with a bass knob you can mount by your seat. It senses the radio turning on and sends the amp a turn-on signal, so there's no extra wire to run from the radio or the fuse box. Fine for one sub amp on a basic factory radio.
Keep in mind: no bass correction, so on most factory radios the sub fades as you turn the volume up and you'll be adjusting the knob. If that's going to bug you, get the LC2i PRO.
The one I'd buy
AudioControl LC2i PRO
$169 at AudioControl, often less at dealers · 2 channel
What I recommend most. AudioControl converters are some of the best made. Two channels in, two pairs of RCAs out (one for the main channels, one for the bass), AccuBASS to keep the sub even as the volume goes up, and it handles up to 400 watts of input, so it works on factory amplified systems too. The dash remote for the sub level is in the box. Turns the amp on by signal sense, audio sense, or a regular remote wire, your choice.
Keep in mind: it's a two-channel unit, so it's for a sub or one amp. For a full system with the door speakers amped too, step up to the LC7i PRO.
Full system, factory radio
AudioControl LC7i PRO
About $309 · 6 channel
Same unit as the LC2i PRO but with six channels: front, rear and sub. This is the one for amping your door speakers and a sub while keeping the stock radio, so every speaker gets a clean signal and the bass stays even. Same AccuBASS, same 400-watt input handling, same dash remote in the box.
Keep in mind: it costs about as much as a new CarPlay radio. If you're not attached to your factory screen, a new radio with RCA outputs plus the amp can come out cheaper than the factory radio plus this converter. Ask me and I'll price it both ways.
The no-cut harness
On a lot of cars I don't splice into the factory wiring at all. PAC makes a plug-in T-harness (their LocPRO Advanced T-Harness line, about $60) that goes between the factory radio and its plug and brings the speaker wires out on leads. The converter wires to those, the factory harness stays untouched, and it all comes back out clean if you ever sell the car. It isn't a converter by itself, it's the harness the converter connects to.
Keep in mind: they're made for non-amplified factory systems and there's a different part number for each radio plug (Toyota, Honda, Hyundai/Kia, Ford, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep/Ram and more). Send me the car and I'll send you the exact one, or I bring it with the converter.
What the install costs
| Install | Price |
|---|---|
| Sub and amp with a factory radioConverter wired behind the radio, amp wiring kit run, sub tuned. Bring your own parts or I bring everything. | from $175 |
| Sub and amp with an aftermarket radioNo converter needed, the radio has RCA outputs. | from $150 |
| 4-channel amp for door speakers | from $180 |
| Full system: amp + sub + speakers | from $400 |
Travel is by zone. Full list on the prices page.
Before you order
Text me the car
Year, make, model, and whether it says Bose, JBL, Harman Kardon or Alpine anywhere on the speakers or the screen. I'll tell you which converter, and whether your amp needs one at all.
Already bought one?
Send me the listing or a photo of the box. If it's a 2- or 4-channel line output converter with a remote turn-on wire, I can install it, even if it isn't one of these three.
Not sure what your car needs?
Text me your year, make, model and what you want done. I'll tell you what fits and what it costs.
I come to you anywhere in Metro Atlanta & North Georgia.